Food as medicine and medicine as food

by Alain Bossé

As a young single mother living in Iran, Zhila Russell of Russell and Sons Torshee had one desire; to get her young son to safety. When she was finally granted UN refugee status, the interviewer at the UN suggested that Canada might be a good choice of a country to settle in, even though it was cold. So Zhila marked an X beside the name of a country she knew very little about. Initially she was to go to Fredericton, and at the airport she exchanged all the money she then had to her name: a total of 20 dollars.

After several flights Zhila found herself on a very small plane traveling between Halifax and Fredericton. Having never seen a plane that size, she prayed from the time she took off until the time she landed. She was driven to a hotel that would be her home until something more permanent would come. Zhila’s first thoughts of Canada were that it was very green, lush and beautiful. Seeing homes that were not surrounded by walls and that cars were left parked in driveways that weren’t gated her only thought was, “how safe people must feel to live so freely.”

Due to her circumstances in Iran, Zhila was not able to finish high school. After she immigrated to Canada and learned to speak English, she decided to continue her education in order to provide a better life for her son so she relocated to Halifax. This remarkable woman, without the benefit of a high school diploma, went on to Dalhousie University where she completed an undergraduate degree in materials engineering and a masters of process engineering and applied sciences. She is currently working on a PhD in mechanical engineering.

While Zhila attended university, her son was enrolled in daycare. She noticed, over time, another parent with a very kind face and the bluest eyes she had ever seen. After learning that he was also a single parent, she decided to leave him an anonymous note expressing her admiration. Unfortunately—or fortunately—her identity did not stay a secret for long, as the note mentioned that she might perhaps be stalking him. She was shocked when he called her up that evening, as she couldn’t understand how he knew it was her, but he said no one else he knew would spell stalking as “stocking.”

That gentleman, named Glenn Russell, later came to be Zhila’s husband and biggest supporter; urging her to begin her own business.

Zhila had heard the saying “Let food be thy medicine and medicine be thy food” many times from her grandmother as she would make herbal remedies for common health complaints. Not having access to the latest technologies in food and medicine, somehow all those ingredients stayed in their diets for many years without being forgotten. Functional foods have a potentially positive effect on health beyond basic nutrition when they are consumed on a regular basis as part of a varied diet. Zhila’s most favourite in this family of foods was pickles or Torshee, which in her first language (Farsi) means “sour.”

Many cultures in Asia include different types of pickles made from various fruits and vegetables, and only a few of those preserves have made their way to North America.

Missing those pickles and wanting to feed her family such a natural digestive aid prompted Zhila to make her own. Her extended Canadian family showed great interest in her recipes, and by modifying some basics of the mix, Zhila was able to create flavours that were delightful to almost anyone. She is quick to point out that she did have help, however.

“After many almost-successful attempts to use my knowledge of food science to feed our boys a healthy diet, my sister stepped in, despite only being able to communicate through webcam,” Zhila tells us. “She suggested the use of ingredients that can make various meals more interesting while delivering them healthy gut bacteria. Our goal was to create an easy side dish that wouldn’t go bad or lose texture and can bring natural, functional, and global flavours. The excitement of coming up with a one of a kind condiment together, led us to research both health benefits of herbs and spices, as well as the food science of fermentation.”

“We created a formula for the natural and sugar-free fermentation method that preserves crunchy vegetables indefinitely, without excessive use of salt and acidic preservatives.”

Before very long Zhila, Glenn and their sons started offering Torshee under the brand name “Russell and Sons Torshee” at the farmers markets around town. A dedicated fan base quickly developed once folks sampled the various types of Torshee.

It was important to Zhila that the boys (there are three now) be included in the business. “Glenn and I are both engineers and it doesn’t happen very often that we get to bring our boys to work with us,” she says. “However, the farmers market was different; we got to spend time together while they watched how other people react to their favourite condiment. They naturally started answering customers’ questions and making sales! It was cute, but also a learning experience that is not given to many, so we made sure that they own not only the business, but its name and reputation.”

The company has expanded at a steady pace and now includes 9 delicious products that can be found in 15 specialty food locations throughout Nova Scotia and PEI.

Zhila points out that she is where she is today based on how she spent her 20 dollars when she came to this country. Her belief is that with hard work and determination for company growth, Torshee can support those who support them; through health and sharing the strength of women-led businesses. Zhila has created new opportunities for people around her, particularly by creating four jobs, and her economic impact is growing.

Chili Lime Torshee Caesar

Makes 2

3 oz (88 mL) vodka

2 tsp (10 mL) Worcestershire sauce

2 tbsp (30 mL) Hot Chili Lime Torshee

2 lemon wedge for rimming

16 oz (500 mL) Clamato juice

Torshee Naughty Pickles for garnish

Celery salt for the rim

Take two 16 oz (500 mL) glasses and run a lemon wedge around the rim; then dip each in celery salt, shaking off excess. Fill jars with ice and put one ounce and a half of vodka in each. Add as much as 1 tsp (5 mL) Worcestershire, and 1 tbsp (15 mL) Chili Lime Torshee in each glass; the more you add the spicier the Caesar! Give a good stir and top with Clamato juice. Garnish with Torshee Naughty Pickles.

Torshee Fish Taco

Makes 12

2 pound (1 kg) fresh white fish 

3 cups (750 mL) vegetable oil (for frying)

2 eggs 

½ cup (125 mL) flour 

½ cup (125 mL) panko crumbs

12 corn or flour tortillas 

2 large carrots, shredded

1 medium daikon radish, shredded

2 stalks celery, diced

¼ tsp (1 mL) caraway seeds

2 limes, juiced 

4 tbsp (60 mL) honey 

1⁄3 cup (70 mL) vegetable oil 

Salt and pepper 

½ cup (125 mL) mayonnaise 

1 tbsp (15 mL) Torshee Hot Chili Lime

½ cup (125 mL) Torshee Seaport

Fresh cilantro for garnish

2 limes in quarters for garnish

Combine shredded carrots, daikon, celery, and caraway seeds in a bowl set aside. Mixed together lime juice, honey, olive oil, add salt and pepper to taste. Pour over slaw, mix and refrigerate.

Combine mayo with Hot Chili Lime Torshee. Set up three bowls: one with flour, one with eggs wash mixed, one with panko. Dredge fish pieces in flour, followed by egg wash and lastly by panko. Shallow fry in oil that’s been heated to 350°F (180°C).

To assemble tacos, spread mayo on tortilla, add fish, top with fresh slaw and top with Seaport Torshee. Garnish with fresh cilantro and serve with lime wedge on the side.