A perfect weekend in scenic Corner Brook

Story and photography by Darcy Rhyno

Captain James Cook—one of history’s greatest explorers and surveyors—is facing the wrong way. He has his eye to the sextant in his hands, looking through it at the surrounding Blow Me Down mountains with his back to the view of Corner Brook and the Bay of Islands. Of course, unlike me, he’s seen it all before.

In 1763, he began a five year assignment—his first official job as surveyor for Britain—mapping the coast of Newfoundland. By the time he arrived here on the west coast to complete his work, he had honed his skills so finely that his charts of Corner Brook and area remained standard for the next century because of their remarkable accuracy. His work here prepared him for his more famous explorations of places like Hawaii and New Zealand.

Along with the great explorer’s statue, the Captain James Cook Historic Site has four interpretive panels that tell his story. There’s a brass reproduction of the accurate chart of this area he produced and another commemorating his great accomplishment here in Newfoundland, as the panel puts it, “the first scientific, large scale, hydrographic survey to use precise triangulation to establish land outlines.” This is the perfect location to acknowledge Cook’s historic achievements in Newfoundland because it would be hard to find a better vantage point from which to view the island’s scenic western city and surrounding waters.

Down into town

It’s time to head down into town. Still in the mood for local history, I search out the Railway Society of Newfoundland’s beautifully preserved set of railway cars. They include steam locomotive number 593 and working diesel electric locomotive number 931, a snow plow car and passenger car. When I climb into the dining car, I can almost hear the clatter of cutlery and the clickety-clack of steel wheels on the track. Tables are set with white table clothes and place settings complete with vases of flowers, wine glasses and menus. The windows are hung with curtains.

The story of the Newfoundland Railway that ran the full length of the island from Port Aux Basques in the west to St. John’s in the east is told on interpretive signs and by engaging hosts. The first track was laid in 1881, but the builders made the mistake of laying narrow gauge rails to cut costs and so the trains could make sharper turns. Later, the track size caused compatibility issues when it came time to link with Canada’s mainland railways. With typical Newfoundland humour the fastest train in the province was nicknamed The Newfie Bullet, but ironically so because it could only reach a top speed of 50 kilometres per hour. The last passenger train ran in 1969, the last freight train in 1988.

A brand new street train (basically a truck frame dressed up like a locomotive that pulls a couple of open-air passenger cars) will take riders back temporarily to the age of rail. It was an instant hit when it started running on its loop route around the downtown last summer. Kids especially enjoy the recorded train sounds aboard the street train nicknamed The Mill Whistler.

I find my way to the door of the Newfoundland Emporium where I’m greeted by a big bundle of friendliness, the resident Newfoundland dog, sporting a spiffy neckerchief. I give him a pet and head inside to check out the flotsam and jetsam. I come eye to eye with a life size wooden sculpture of a Viking, chuckle at a couple of mummer dolls, heft a kellick and a set of moose antlers, browse the books and buy a bottle each of cloudberry or lingonberry syrup.

Owner Dave Ledrew has even managed to save the whistle from The Newfie Bullet. As I depart, I feel like I’ve just experienced the entire province of Newfoundland and Labrador in a single store.

In need of some down time, I search out the bit of quiet wildness in the middle of town on the trails that follow the Corner Brook Stream from City Hall to the Glynmill Inn Pond and beyond. I stop at the Glynmill Inn for dinner. First, I head downstairs for a glass of vino in The Wine Cellar bar with comfy armchairs and a large selection of wines from around the world. Then it’s upstairs for lunch in The Carriage Room with windows that look out onto a lush, tree shaded garden. After a salad made with fresh North Atlantic shrimp, I go for the hearty Cod aux Gratin because, of course, I’m in Newfoundland. It’s rich, creamy and delicious, a real stick-to-your-ribs Newfoundland supper. When my head hits the pillow, I’m instantly dreaming of tall ships and trains.

Go for a walk, Corner Brook style

The next morning, I cross the Humber River to hike the Man in the Mountain Trail. It leads to the top of a round, little mountain that’s said to mark the place where treasure is buried on Shellbird Island in the river below. The story brings to mind a new novel I saw in The Newfoundland Emporium entitled Shellbird by Floyd Spracklin about two teens who pursue the legend.

The huge rock face is said to resemble that of an old man’s face, but to me, it looks as if the mountain has been cleft in half by a giant hand. The views from the top are well worth the hike on the up-and-back trail, but there’s no sign of treasure, unless it’s Marble Mountain in the distance. In winter, it’s a popular ski destination, boasting the highest vertical drop of any ski slope in Atlantic Canada. In summer, there’s a river to kayak and zip lines to dare. Nearby, there’s golf and salmon fishing in the Humber River.

A hike like this works up an appetite, so I double back across the river into town, grab a copy of that novel and head for a restaurant I’ve had my eye on, Newfoundland Sushi. Because Newfoundland is so rich in seafood, a sushi restaurant next to the ocean seems a natural fit. And it is. Everything is fresh and flavourful, and sometimes imaginatively served. Their “Boatload of Sushi” comes in a miniature dory. Liquid accompaniments range from green tea to Japanese saki to local craft beers on tap.

It’s back in the car because there’s another wilderness area I want to check out, the Cape Blow Me Down Provincial Park. The name is enticing enough, but it’s the dramatic seaside landscape I’m really interested in. Corner Brook harbour is so long, it takes nearly an hour to drive from the city to the park at the mouth of the harbour. From the parking lot, I hit the James Cook Heritage Trail, named for that great man whose statue I met at the beginning of the trip and who first accurately mapped this peninsula. The lookoffs here are almost as dramatic as the one where Cook’s statue stands, eye to sextant, ever the surveyor of this land. 

After sampling the trail, I head back into town. The cozy and friendly Bootleg Brew Company has some great craft beer in their taproom, including a coconut lime sour I want to try, and tonight there’s live music. Because they’re small batch, the beers are only available in the Bootleg taproom. I figure a pint or two sipped to the sounds of local Newfoundland tunes will make a perfect ending to this weekender in Corner Brook. Maybe I’ll go for a complete immersion into the culture of The Rock’s western city by bringing along my copy of that book about buried treasure, Shellbird, and crack the cover over a Bootleg Brew.

Cod au Gratin

(Created by Glynmill Inn executive chef Joe Froud)

Serves 2

4 oz cod fillet cut into three equal pieces         

3 oz 35 per cent whipping cream

2 oz cheddar cheese divided in half

Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the cod in a lightly oiled frying pan. Flip the cod, then add the cooking cream. Season with salt and pepper. Reduce the cream for 2 to 3 minutes. Add half the cheddar cheese. Reduce for another 1 to 2 minutes.

Place the reduced cream and cod on a plate. Top with the other half of the cheddar cheese and broil. 

Header Caption: Captian James Cook looks through his sextant at the Blow Me Down mountains.
Intro Caption: The Glynmill Inn Pond Trail.