Sometimes food producers try to add value to their goods with the help of a term that is overused: “artisan.”
How does a product qualify for recognition as “artisanal?” It’s a distinctive item that is hand made by someone who has studied his or her craft.
Fine cheese from deep in the woods of rural New Brunswick.
Sometimes food producers try to add value to their goods with the help of a term that is overused: “artisan.”
How does a product qualify for recognition as “artisanal?” It’s a distinctive item that is hand made by someone who has studied his or her craft.
Enter Fromagerie au Fond des Bois.
Patrick and Marina Henderson started Fromagerie au Fond des Bois (“au fond des bois” translates to “deep in the woods”) in 2007 on 267 acres of wooded river-frontage close to Rexton, NB. The Hendersons are not alone in creating artisanal cheeses in Atlantic Canada—there are a number of producers who make gouda, feta and cheddar—but they stand out in that they use a unique processing technique to make French-style goat’s milk chèvre.
It was just over a decade ago that Patrick and Marina began to explore cheese-making. They were living in the Auvergne region of France where, for thousands of years, world-famous cheese had been produced.
When the local economy began to collapse, the Hendersons decided to relocate. While on a visit to Quebec they discovered New Brunswick, and were captivated. The beauty of the province and the friendliness of the people convinced them that this would be their new home. In January 2005, they bought an abandoned farm, and began a new adventure.
After clearing the land and building a home and several outbuildings, they began the process of becoming a viable cheese farm. Many regulations and guidelines need to be followed when making cheese; the Hendersons received valuable assistance from New Brunswick’s Department of Agriculture, Aquaculture and Fisheries. They combined the knowledge they had gained in France with experience gleaned while they were working on a cheese farm outside of Montreal. Marina also took courses in cheese-making at the University of Guelph, in Ontario, and the couple worked closely with a cheese consultant.
The startup has not been without challenges. The Hendersons have a license to produce raw cheese, but because regulations state that raw cheese must be aged for 60 days, they produce only two varieties, concentrating their efforts on pasteurized cheeses instead. They are, however, developing a pasteurized cheese that has a flavour comparable to the raw types.
The Fromagerie gets its milk from 80 goats. Last year, they produced a total of 4,000 kilograms of goat cheese. In 2011, the Hendersons hope to grow their herd to 100 head.
The Fromagerie currently produces 18 varieties of cheese along with two yogurts. Most of the cheeses produced are known as “fromages lactiques,” employing a method that has been used more than 10,000 years. After adding rennet and culture to the goats’ milk, Marina allows the mixture to mature for 12 to 36 hours, until it turns to curd. When the temperature and acidity are just right, the curd is ladled into moulds, which are set to drain for 24 hours. After that, the cheese is turned twice daily for 10 days. It is then ready for consumption.
Among the Fromagerie’s products are two soft cheeses: Cabri au Lait (Brie) and Tintamarre (a lovely stinky cheese). The other cheeses they produce are known as tomme (which translates from French patios as “cheese made in the mountains”). Tomme is a hard cheese with a grey, white or brown rind. Some, such as the Tomme Blanche, are mild, while the Ermite is more flavourful. They also produce two flavours of Faisselle Fromage Blanc—one plain and one with garlic and herbs—which is similar to cream cheese.
Their products are available at farmers markets in Dieppe, Fredericton and Halifax and at some retailers in New Brunswick. Visit the Fromagerie by appointment or by chance.
When I asked Patrick what he would like people to know about the couple’s business, he replied, “That we respect our customers, our goats, and Mother Nature. That without local support we would not be where we are today.” And, lastly, “That eating well is a pleasure, and it’s good for you.”
La Fromagerie’s cheeses have unique flavour profiles, like fine wines. I’ve chosen to showcase three cheeses, each in a recipe designed to highlight its versatility and unique character.