From the stunning salt marshes to unique artisans
Story and photography by Jodi DeLong
Back when my family lived in the Moncton area, we would make regular road trips to Nova Scotia to visit my grandparents in the Valley and on the South Shore. A highlight of these trips, at least to an inquisitive back-seat rider, was the drive from Memramcook, NB to Amherst, NS, through a vast and wonderful area called the Tantramar marshes. There were two attractions to me at the time—the so-called “antenna farm” that was the site of Radio Canada International’s shortwave transmitting station, and the seemingly endless wooden barns on the marshes, where farmers would store their hay from the dyked fields.
The RCI site is long since mothballed and dismantled, and there are only a scant few barns dotting the marshes now, but the appeal of that area has broadened for me, and for countless visitors each year. Anchored by the two main towns of Sackville, NB and Amherst, NS, with other communities including Memramcook and Port Elgin, NB as part of the Tantramar region, this is a wonderful part of Atlantic Canada for day trips or extended visits.
A little history: The Tantramar region is flanked by two bodies of water—the Northumberland Strait between NB and PEI to the North, and the mighty, tidal Bay of Fundy to the south. Its name is derived from the French Acadian word Tintamarre, which means a loud racket of noise, and speaks to the huge ruckus of sound caused by migratory birds, waterfowl and the wild winds that whip in off the salt water.
Much of the area is actually below sea level but protected (usually) from the elements by a wide selection of dykelands, first built by the Acadians in the early 17th century and expanded from then to the current day. Some of the acreage is still prime agricultural, but unique ecosystems including salt marshes led to the preservation and protection of much of the lands. The Sackville Waterfowl Park, located near the town’s Visitor Information Centre and fantastic local artisan gift shop, is a popular spot for birdwatching as well as walking and learning more about the birds of the area.
Sackville is home to Mount Alison University, one of the top-ranked universities in Canada according to Maclean’s magazine. This of course swells the population of the town each year and is in no small part responsible for the thriving commerce and culture of the town. The Sackville Farmers Market runs year round (locations vary with time of year); the town is very walkable and there are a host of delightful shops and venues to visit, including Anointment Natural Skin Care, Blooms plant and florist shop, Cackling Goose Gluten Free Market, Smooth as Silk hand-painted silk wearables and art, and the Campbell Carriage Factory Museum.
Amherst, NS was established in 1764 as a place for New England Planters to settle following the expulsion of the Acadians from the region. Well known in the past as a town of industry, with the railway serving as a transportation hub for many local businesses, today the pace is slower but no less welcoming to visitors. The town is not that far from the Joggins Fossil Cliffs, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to a must-see museum as well as the beach and cliffs. Fort Lawrence and Beaubassin National Historic Site is also nearby, noted for its walking trails, ideal picnicking, and a chance to step back in history.
Among the attractions in Amherst town and surroundings are Maritime Mosaic at Dayle’s Grand Market, a stately former department store that now features the work of dozens of local artisans and producers; Birkinshaw’s Tea Room, where you’ll find proper afternoon tea and many, many other culinary delights; Deanne Fitzpatrick Studio, a rug-hooking studio and gallery; and Copper Tree Boutique for terrific footwear and accessories. Outside of town, visit the Amherst Point Bird Sanctuary, a nationally protected habitat with hiking trails and dramatic scenery of forest and marshlands.
One of the somewhat hidden gems of the area is the beautiful village of Port Elgin, NB, located on the Northumberland Strait and home to many artisans and other entrepreneurial types. It’s a walkable town, not far from the Fort Gaspereaux National Historic Site. Among the attractions you’ll find in Port Elgin and surroundings are Winegarden Estate in Baie Verte, which features unique wines, liqueurs and schnapps brought by the family from Germany; PEDVAC Foundation, which works with families in need and has an amazing boutique of repurposed and previously loved clothing and other items, and the remarkable Bistro Le Chat Bleu, where the food is simply sublime. Especially, I understand, the carrot cake. (I admit nothing!)
Every autumn, the towns of the Tantramar area host Art Across the Marsh, a weekend-long celebration of local artisans featuring 20-plus unique venues and dozens of artists. Pottery, painting, jewellery, silk work, fibre work—all this and more can be explored in the communities around the Tantramar.
Some of the artists only open their studios to the public once a year during this weekend—their offerings are available at local shops like the gift shop at the Sackville VIC—and it’s a great chance to see them at work. Join me as I jump in the car and visit the area every few months—you’ll be glad you did!
Header caption: The village of Port Elgin, NB is on a tidal river on the Northumberland Strait.
Intro caption: Silk artist Marilyn Cook paints a wall hanging.
