By Shelley Cameron-McCarron
Farmers’ markets are a treasured (and still growing) tradition in Atlantic Canada—a place to buy produce bursting with flavour, fresh seafood and local meats, and pick up a cute, quality handknit hat or homemade soy candle. They’re a prime place to sample local wine or craft beer, buy baked goods, chat with neighbours, grab a coffee and delicious meal, and soak in a unique community vibe.
The region is home to more than 100 diverse, vibrant farmers’ markets, from Clarenville, NL, where visitors can see an operating Elliston-style root cellar, to the version in PEI, where the meat at Pleasant Pork is as awesome as the huge personality of farmer Ranald MacFarlane.
“Farmers’ markets are hubs of social and economic activity in our province,” says Justin Cantafio, executive director of the Farmers’ Markets of Nova Scotia Co-operative.
“We have a perfect recipe in our province, with a fast-growing tourism industry, a thriving local food and artisan scene, a strong Maritime sense of entrepreneurship, and a beautiful patchwork of cultures coming together under one roof—or tent!”
He says Nova Scotia’s farmers’ markets are growing in popularity and in number because they offer the perfect opportunity for locals and tourists alike to come together, support local producers, and feel a true sense of community.
Abundance, community and togetherness
“In this day and age of people becoming increasingly distanced and alienated from who grows and produces their food, there has never been a more important time for people to reconnect with their communities, their farmers, and their producers. Farmers’ markets are a regional celebration of abundance, community, and togetherness.”
It’s a sector that’s certainly growing.
Mr. Cantafio says when their co-operative was first formed in 2004, there were 15 farmers’ markets in Nova Scotia, 11 of which were members. Fast-forward to 2019, and there are 48 farmers’ markets in the province—the most per capita in Canada—with 12 operating year-round.
The largest certified Farmers’ Markets of Nova Scotia’s 27 member markets are in Truro, Mabou, Halifax (two), Wolfville, New Glasgow, Antigonish, Sydney, and Lunenburg.
Their smaller members also offer a unique farmers’ market experience, he says. “Many of our markets take place in picturesque settings in beautiful rural villages along our seacoast and farmland.” There is a detailed market map on the organization’s website.
Everything has a story
Pamela Anstey, executive director of the St. John’s Farmers’ Market Co-operative in Newfoundland and Labrador, which last July moved into its own space (seven times the size of the previous location) says one of the most appealing elements is the knowledge and passion the vendors have about the food and goods they make.
“Everything has a story here, that’s an incredible part of it. This is a product of their own hands, and you’re meeting the person who actually created this,” she says.
The market is open Saturdays year-round, the first Friday evening of each month, the second Sunday of the month from January to July, and every Sunday from July through December.
In Newfoundland, she says the produce does get a little sparser in the winter, but they make up for that in being very eclectic. And visitors can certainly eat their way around the world. Along with their own café, the market has vendors offering Newfoundland foods and cuisine from about 15 countries including Ethiopian to Persian food to a Jewish Deli.
“Our shores may be rocky, but our fields are plenty,” is the tagline for the Clarenville Farm & Market, a June to December seasonal market rocking 35 booths, raised growing beds, a greenhouse for starter plants, an operating Elliston style root cellar, a children’s play area, entertainment and nutritional program in Clarenville. A growing hub, at press time the market was even up for a tourism award.
Beloved tradition
In New Brunswick in 2018, there were 43 farmers’ markets, with 12 operating year-round, says Alison Aiton, Senior Project Executive, Marketing & Trade, New Brunswick Department of Agriculture, Aquaculture and Fisheries.
She says the province’s largest markets include the W. W. Boyce Farmers’ Market in Fredericton, Marché Moncton Market, Marché de Dieppe, and the Saint John City Market.
In Fredericton, the Boyce market is a beloved Saturday morning tradition, with more than 250 indoor and outdoor vendors, including an outside Food Alley, and the market’s famous samosas.
Don’t leave without trying the coffee at Special Blend Coffee Company, a weekly routine for many Frederictonians. The business started more than 35 years ago by Karen Martinson’s parents, Rita & George Upshall. Karen continues serving their top-secret family blends. (For a perfect combination, try their Empress Hotel scones, made from a recipe Rita discovered in the 1970s.)
Also in Fredericton, the Garrison Night Market was new last year, held summer Thursdays in the Historic Garrison District, the old British military garrison. It proved a big success with in excess of 100 vendors. “Our food vendors were very popular and sold out every week,” says Mary Ellen Hudson of Fredericton Tourism. One favourite was Queen Street Creamery, making small batch luxury ice cream and selling it out of an old-fashion ice cream truck. Also popular was the entertainment that included everything from multi-cultural acts to a swing band.
At the venerable Saint John City Market, a national historic site, visitors will want to ensure they stop to try some dulse—or maybe even a DLT (dulse, lettuce and tomato sandwich) from Slocum & Ferris, and stock up on the freshest of seafood at North Market Seafood. Plus they’ll want to grab their shot for Instagram of the beautiful roof, resembling an inverted ship’s keel.
Slow food
The Bouctouche Farmers’ Market (BFM) is located in the centre of the beautiful coastal town, says Kathy Gildart, the event’s marketing co-ordinator. “Together, with a complementary teaching kitchen, a local food boutique and the joint programming of the neighbouring Société Culturelle de Kent-Sud Cultural Centre, it is a spectacular local food hub in the Kent region and in southeastern New Brunswick,” she says.
“Each week there is live entertainment, a Kids’ Corner, demos and tastings and the opportunity to discuss important food issues at the Slow Food Conversation tent. The BFM is working towards becoming the first Slow Food Earth Market in Canada, adopting the principles of good, clean and fair food.”
She says their brand-new facility opened in 2018 was the beginning of a new era. This year, the market will run from May 18 to October 26 with the Christmas Market planned for December 6 to 8. On average, the market offers between 30 and 50 vendors.
She says the growing local food movement is here to stay. People want to know where and how their food is grown as well as meet the people who cultivate it. “It’s about having an experience, community and connection.”
Year round, twice weekly
The Wolfville Farmer’s Market in Nova Scotia started in 1992 with three vendors in a parking lot. “We have grown each year and now offer a year-round, twice weekly market as well as an online store and delivery service that delivers to 11 community hubs across the province, called WFM2Go,” says Corinna Paumier, the market’s sustainability & communications co-ordinator.
The Saturday market attracts more than 70 vendors offering produce, meat, dairy, prepared meals, pantry, health and artisanal treasurers inside a 9,000 square foot transformed turn-of-the-century apple warehouse. Live music, special events and plenty of kids programming are held throughout the year.
Experience appeals
“The whole experience of shopping at a farmers’ market is what appeals to people. The unique atmosphere, chatting to the producers of your food, enjoying fresh local foods and products, chatting to your neighbours who are shopping—it is the whole social experience,” says Ashley Marlin, manager of the Hubbards Farmers’ Market, which runs May to October, with three Christmas markets at the end of November and beginning of December.
A fixture for over two decades, the market has 45 vendors set up inside and out at the Hubbards Barn & Community Park, a 35-minute drive from Halifax, NS.
She says they’ve seen a growing interest in farmers’ markets, with more young people making it their weekly grocery stop. It makes a great Saturday morning outing, she says, noting in Hubbards, people can grab a coffee or stroll their walking trail. Kids can play in the sandpit, and vendors serve fresh vegetables and meats, breads, wine, cheese, fish, jams and jellies, beer, spirits, soaps, and artisanal products. Be sure to snag a bagel sandwich from Rafe’s Toasted!
Another must-visit is the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market, a popular year-round operation, open seven days a week during the regular season, and Tuesday to Sunday in the winter. Created in 1750, one year after Halifax itself was founded, it remains a vibrant hub, now located on the Halifax waterfront in the seaport arts and culture district. On Saturdays, expect more than 250 vendors.
Buy fresh, live local
In Prince Edward Island, the Charlottetown Farmers Market has existed for 204 years. Began on the water’s edge of Hillsborough River and held many places thereafter, it’s resided at its present location on Belvedere Avenue since 1984, says market manager Bernie Plourde.
There are 60 vendors in their interior market, which is open year-round every Saturday from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. From mid-June to October, a second day of operation is added with doors opening Wednesdays from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Additionally, they benefit from an outdoor market season from May to October with about another 20 members setting up.
“The market has several certified organic farmers, enabling them to serve up greens, tomatoes and, cucumbers all year round. Organic artisanal breads from True Loaf is a must for any bread lover. Should you want to eat at the market, you will have an embarrassment of choices as we serve up international foods from Africa to Asia as well as a maritime local favourite seafood options,” he says.
“A visit to the market wouldn’t be complete without a mug of locally roasted Caledonia House or sipping a tea from our certified tea sommelier of Lady Baker’s Tea.”
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Header credit: Tourism New Brunswick
Intro caption: The thriving Wolfville Farmers' Market.
Intro credit: Courtesy of Wolfviille Farmers' Market
