A 10-day cruise around Newfoundland reveals a rough, soul-stirring beauty-and a few characters too. It was a perfect October afternoon when Akademic Ioffe anchored off an unoccupied cove called Little Garia Bay on Newfoundland's South Coast. A large day, my father would have called it, warm and virtually cloudless, an endless prairie sky of blue arching past the sea's horizon. My wife and I, along with 100 other passengers, were on Adventure Canada's circumnavigation of Newfoundland, a 10-d...